First Warning Royce had forgotten the “Frog Wax” for our boards, and mine desperately needed a fresh coat. It was getting slippery, so he left to grab some at a nearby 7-Eleven. I stayed behind, alone on the beach. What we didn’t know was that a hurricane watch had been issued, which explained the increasingly rough conditions. Everyone had been ordered out of the water on both beaches. By then, the waves were breaking at nearly ten feet. A storm was approaching, but I didn’t care. Suddenly, I heard a siren and a loudspeaker from the shore: “YOU THERE! GET OUT OF THE WATER, NOW!” Reluctantly, I obeyed. The officer
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